Summer

Andy

Barbecue on the Eiger (Mittelegi Refuge)

 

After more than 15 years climbing in the Alps, I've learned that the best results are achieved by being flexible and mobile.  Keeping your goals firmly in site and by using local knowledge and determination, I will ensure you get the most out of your mountain adventure.

 

Together we can tailor a trip around your ambitions or you may wish to try one of these popular courses.

 

Course prices include, guide, guides expenses and transport during the course. They do not include lifts, refuges and accommodation, this gives us the flexibility to stay where the conditions are best and the freedom to adapt our plans at the last minute.

 

matplane

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Andy Ewer (climber) Anthony Franklin (guide and pilot)

Flying around the Matterhorn, the day before summiting.

 

 

Eiger - Matterhorn           6 days      1:1 ratio

 

Depending on conditions we will start in Grindelwald or Zermatt with a day route such as the Breithorn traverse, which will serve as a mise en jambe (warm up day) and leave 5 days to climb these two great classics.

           

The Eiger, up the Mittelegi ridge and down the south ridge, remains one of the most original, diverse and exciting alpine traverses.  From the train that grinds its way through the Eiger and up to the Jungfraujoch, and iced up tunnel down on to the Fieschergletscher to the spectacular Mittelegi refuge, followed by fabulous climbing on good rock, a climb that will live with you for a long time.

           

The Matterhorn, little needs to be said about this famous mountain, except that, once you have done it, eating a toblerone will never be the same again.  If circumstances allow we will traverse up from the Italian side and down the Hornli ridge, or the traditional route up and down the Hornli ridge.

 

Summits:         Eiger 3970m, Matterhorn 4477m

 

Staying in:      Grindelwald and Zermatt

 

Airport:           Geneva

 

Dates:             28th of June to the 7th of September 2008

 

Cost:               £1,580

 

 

Skills and fitness

Steady VD climber, alpine experience up to AD and good over all fitness.

 

Acclimatisation

It is a good idea to come a few days before and do some walking with at least one night in a refuge above 2500m.

 

 

mitref

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mittellegi ridge from the refuge.

 

  

Big Three, Eiger - Matterhorn - Dent Blanche       12 days    2:1 ratio (1:1 for the Matterhorn).

          

12 days plus one rest day allows the flexibility needed to take on this ambitious project.

        

Below the snowy stare of the Dent Blanche lies the peaceful village of Evolene, a typical Swiss alpine village complete with people dressed in native costume.

 

After a warm up route it's up to the cabane de la Dent Blanche and the magnificent south ridge. A mixed route on excellent rock with some exciting surprises.  Then on to the Matterhorn and the Eiger which will be tackled in much the same style as the 6 day course, but with the added advantage of  more time available.

 

Summits:         Eiger 3970m Matterhorn 4477m Dent Blanche 4357m

 

Staying in:      Evolene, Grindelwald and Zermatt.

 

Airport:           Geneva

 

Dates:             28th of June to the 14th of September 2008.

 

Cost:               £1,690

 

 

Skills and fitness

Steady VD climber, alpine experience up to AD and good over all fitness.

 

Acclimatisation

This being a 2 week course means that getting some acclimatisation in is not so important, but if possible it will be a great help.

 

Final Arret 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eiger final arret.

 

 

La Meije - Dibonna      6 days       2:1 ratio

 

Welcome to the sunny southern alps, granite spires, airy ridges, wild country, wholesome hospitality, topped off with the traverse de La Meije, arguably the best D traverse in the Alps.  This is a week for rock aficionados who like a bit of ice and mixed climbing thrown into the bargain.

 

Summits = Dibonna 3200 La Mije 3985m

 

Skills and fitness

Good VS climber, alpine experience up to AD and good over all fitness.

 

Acclimatisation

Will be done during the course although a few days up at altitude will serve you well.

 

Staying in:      La Grave and St Christophe

 

Airport:           Grenoble or Lyon

 

Dates:             14th of June to the 27th of September 2008

 

Cost:               £840

 

 

mountain

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Meije arret

 

 

The Big Classics    12 Days   2:1 Ratio  Chamonix and Swiss Valais.

 

A challanging course where the great Swiss and Chamonix classics are on the menu, from steep snow and ice routes to mixed rock ridges.  Some of the routes we will be climbing are:

 

  • Dent du Geant and Rochefort Ridge
  • Aiguille de Bionnassay
  • Aiguille du Chardonnet in Chamonix
  • Weisshorn and Lenspitze traverse
  • Lenspitze and Breithorn north face in Switzerland.

 

This is a fortnight for those who have got the famous summits out of their system and want to perfect their skills on AD and D routes.

 

Summits:         Dent du Geant 4013m, Aiguille de Bionnassay 4052m, Aiguille du Chardonnet 3842m, Frontier Ridge of Mont Maudit 4465m

                        Weisshorn 4505m, Lenspitze 4294m, Breithorn 4164m.

 

Skills and fitness

Good VS climber, alpine experience up to AD and good over all fitness.

 

Acclimatisation

Since this is a 12 day course it is not essential but a night at altitude before hand would be beneficial.

 

Staying in:      Chamonix and Evolene

 

Airport:           Geneva

 

Dates:             14th of June to the 27th of September 2008

 

Cost:               £ 1,600

 

shadows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Weisshorn

 
 

ã copyright 2007   Tel: + 33 607 973 811   anthony@franklinalpine.com

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